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Labels Can Hide the Presence of Phthalates


Published July 6, 2005

PURISTS who try to avoid phthalates in their cosmetics find it is not always easy because phthalates are seldom included on labels. The chemicals are frequently used as components of fragrances (to make scents last longer). And while the Food and Drug Administration requires most cosmetic ingredients to be listed, the agency offers a loophole for fragrances. Their formulas are considered proprietary secrets, so the manufacturer may simply use the generic term "fragrance."

That loophole applies not only to perfumes but also to any scent used in lipsticks, moisturizers, shampoos or mascaras. In general, phthalates will be listed on a label only when they are used for purposes unrelated to fragrance: to make colors last longer, for example, or to make hair sprays more flexible and nail polish more durable.

It is not enough simply to choose an unscented product because masking fragrances, often containing phthalates, are added to them. Products that list neither "fragrance" nor phthalates are most likely to be free of the chemicals.

One way to track down products without phthalates is to consult the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, which seeks a ban on phthalates in American beauty products. In 2002 the group sent 72 products to a research lab and found phthalates present in 52 of them.

Among products the lab found to be phthalate-free were Neutrogena Hand Cream, Vaseline Intensive Care Advanced Healing Lotion and Aussie Mega Styling Spray. The complete list is available at www.nottoopretty.org/goodbad.htm .

Beauty brands that eschew phthalates altogether include boutique lines like Dr. Hauschka, Ren, California Baby and Buddha Nose, as well as the hair salon brand Aveda.