News Coverage
Wild salmon come calling for dinner
Published May 30, 2004
The trend in salmon is wild. Most salmon at the market is farm-raised -- grown in netted pens in the ocean. But wild salmon --caught in the fresh and salt waters of the Pacific Northwest and shipped directly to stores -- is gaining popularity, even though it is not available year-round and usually costs more than twice as much as the tame fish.
Gorgeous red Copper River salmon from Alaska, the most prized wild variety, should swim into stores and restaurants now.
Get ready to catch it.
Why wild?
* Flavor: Wild salmon has a distinctive rich and buttery flavor with a more dense texture than farm-raised fish.
* Health: Because wild salmon live in a natural habitat and are caught seasonally (generally May to September), the fish has more healthy omega-3 fatty acids. And a report last year by the nonprofit Environmental Working Group showed farm-raised salmon contains higher levels of PCBs and other cancer-causing contaminants than wild salmon. Pen-raised fish are sometimes fed processed food containing antibiotics and synthetic dyes to turn their flesh red.
* Environment: Groups such as the Wild Salmon Center in Portland, Ore., claim salmon farms pollute estuaries and other habitats and threaten wild fish populations. Five species of wild salmon are protected as endangered or threatened species, although if accepted, a recent federal proposal may remove that protection. The five are: chum salmon (Washington and Oregon), coho (California and Oregon), sockeye (Idaho, Washington and Oregon), chinook (Washington, Oregon, Idaho, California) and Atlantic (in Maine), according the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.
What about the high price?
The cost of wild salmon can range from $13 to $28 a pound, depending on the season and where it is caught (Copper River is usually the most expensive). Because it is rich-flavored and dense-textured, you don't need to eat as much -- maybe only one-fourth pound. Frozen wild salmon costs considerably less -- usually about $10 to $13 per pound.
Types of wild salmon
Following are the four major types of wild salmon:
* Chinook or king: Among the best, high-fat (omega-3) and soft-textured with color ranging from off-white to bright red.
* Coho or silver: Another healthy, high-fat fish, it's firm-textured with pink to red-orange flesh.
* Sockeye or red: Firm, deep red and prized for canning.
* Atlantic: Wild population has diminished greatly over years due to overfishing and pollution. Most salmon labeled "Atlantic" is farm raised.
How to cook and serve it
Generally, salmon require about 10 minutes of cooking per inch of thickness. (Begin checking for doneness after seven minutes.) Grill or roast over moderate heat. Season with olive oil and salt, and grill or pan-roast in a 350-degree oven. Or, for a smoky-sweet flavor, oven-roast it on a cedar plank available at kitchen supply and gourmet stores.
Chefs recommend serving wild salmon simply, with a flavored butter and-or fresh herbs.
Where to buy it
Most grocery stores and fish shops carry fresh wild salmon when it is in season, generally May through September. If you don't see it, ask when the fish will be available. Some also sell frozen wild salmon.