New York Daily News, COLETTE BOUCHEZ Colette Bouchez
Published September 30, 2006
Long before Cleopatra used kohl to line her eyes or Jezebel painted her lips ruby red, mothers and daughters have been arguing about the right age to start using makeup.
Now, score one for moms. A new cancer research project suggests the younger a girl is when she begins using certain cosmetics and personal care items, and the more she uses, the greater her risk of developing breast cancer later in life.
The report, just released by Vassar College in New York and the Pittsburgh Cancer Center, presents evidence linking breast cancer risks to a variety of environmental factors, including chemicals commonly found in cosmetics and self-care products.
"The evidence may not be as definitive as some would like, but there are some strong associations suggesting young women routinely exposed to some of these ingredients may increase their risk of developing breast cancer later in life," says Vassar professor Dr. Janet Gray, the project's director.
But rather than frighten women away from using cosmetics, she hopes her report will enable smarter product choices.
Earlier this month, three cosmetic manufacturers - OPI, Orly International and Del Laboratories for the Sally Hansen brand - yielded to pressure from consumer and health groups by announcing they would remove the chemical compound phthalate from their nail products, an ingredient suspected of causing birth defects and of having links to breast cancer.
Cosmetic giants Avon, Estee Lauder, Revlon and L'Oreal (Maybelline) already agreed to begin decreasing use of this chemical in their nail products, reports the watchdog group Campaign for Safe Cosmetics.
While all cosmetics and personal care products contain chemicals, those raising the most red flags are the ones experts say act like estrogens in the body, or interfere with estrogen-related processes.
Because many of these same chemicals are found in the environment, including household products like plastic wrap and water bottles, some say putting them in cosmetics adds more fuel to an already burning fire. Gray says it's women under 25 who are most likely to get burned.
"Beginning at puberty and continuing to about age 25 a woman's breast tissue is developing, with certain cells continuing to undergo specific changes," says Dr. Julia Smith, director of the Lynne Cohen Breast Cancer Preventive Care Program at the NYU Cancer Institute.
If, at the time of those changes, a woman is exposed to certain chemicals - particularly those influencing estrogenic activity - those changing cells may be affected in a way that increases the risk of breast cancer later in life, Smith says.
"Will you get breast cancer from using lip gloss or hairspray? No. But there are strong scientific suspicions that some of the chemicals used in cosmetics and personal care products might increase your risks, especially if there is heavy usage before the age of 25," says Smith.
In California, experts appear to be more certain that this is the case. On its environmental docket known as Proposition 65, legislators list a number of chemicals routinely found in cosmetics as carcinogens or the cause of reproductive toxicity.
What to look out for
When it comes to breast cancer risks, Gray reports one of her biggest fears surrounds parabens, anti-microbials and preservatives found in many skin creams, foundations, shampoos, shower gels, even sunscreens.
Earlier this year, parabens were discovered in tissue taken from breast tumors - a finding that leads some researchers to question whether deodorants containing this ingredient could be a factor.
"In addition to possibly interfering with estrogenic activity, parabens that are topically applied have been shown to collect in tissue," says Gray.
And despite recent efforts to remove compounds called phthalates from some nail products, Gray says hairsprays, gels, mousses, fragrances, deodorants and skin creams still commonly contain them.
Frequently listed on ingredient labels as DBP, DEP, BBzP or DEHP, phthalates can also be found in the plastic of some bottles used in packaging makeup. Over time, says Gray, those chemicals may leach into the products themselves.
"Over time, all these chemical exposures have at least the potential to impact developing breast tissue."
The use of nanoparticles - controversial molecules that undergo high-tech manipulation to reduce their size, thus allowing them to penetrate skin cells more easily - may increase risks even further.
Some researchers believe that anything that allows chemicals to breach the skin's barrier has at least the potential to do us harm.
The average adult exposes his or herself to more than 120 questionable chemicals every day by using personal-care products, found a survey of some 2,300 people conducted by the Environmental Working Group (EWG), among other organizations.
Of the 10,500 chemical ingredients used in personal care products, EWG reports just 11% have been safety assessed - by a panel funded by manufacturers.
Although many researchers believe the associations between cosmetics and breast cancer risks are real, Smith reminds us there is no cause-effect and no direct link established. "Right now it's still considered an association," she says.
And the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTFA), which provides manufacturers with Safety Evaluation Guidelines, argues that cosmetics in use today are tested and safe.
"The use of phthalates in cosmetics and personal care products is supported by an extensive body of scientific research and data that confirms safety," said the organization in its most recent statement.
Consumer beware
The CTFA also backs the use of nanoparticles, and tells The News: "In addition to our industry's commitment to safety, federal law requires that every cosmetic product be substantiated for safety before it goes to market. As a result, FDA statistics confirm that cosmetics are one of the safest categories of products used by Americans today."
But with no industrywide or government safety standards that companies must adhere to, and no watchdog agency to ensure that they honor any voluntary promises they make, the EWG warns that consumers must proceed with caution.
The girls at higher risk
African-American girls may be at greatest risk, says Vassar's Janet Gray, because of hair-care ingredients that are marketed directly to this community.
In addition to chemicals like phthalates and parabens, these products frequently contain estrogen as well as placental hormones, which she says are directly linked to changes in breast development.
"Over time we fear this could [affect] the risk of breast cancer in African-American women," says Gray.
The American Cancer Society reports that currently, more African-American women die of breast cancer than any other group.
Protect yourself, for free!
Here are some resources that can help:
GET A CD: Learn how to reduce your risks with an informative, interactive and easy-to-use program from Vassar College called "Environmental Risks and Breast Cancer." For your free copy visit:
http://erbc.vassar.edu
GET TESTED: How many cosmetic chemicals are already in your body? If you're between the ages of 14 and 19 you can participate in a nationwide study conducted by the Environmental Working Group. You'll need to give one blood and one urine sample, and parental okay for gals under 18. Visit
www.ewg.org or call 1-866-222-7059.
KNOW WHAT'S IN YOUR MAKEUP BAG: Visit
www.safecosmetics.org, where you'll find an interactive database of 14,000 personal-care products and their related health risks, plus a listing of the 400 cosmetics companies who have signed the Compact for Safe Cosmetics, a pact promising to remove all known carcinogens from their products.
DISCOVER YOUR BREAST CANCER RISK PROFILE: The Lynne Cohen Breast Cancer Preventive Care Program at the NYU Cancer Institute will prescreen to determine your cancer risks, and give you the opportunity to go forward with more sophisticated testing, genetic counseling and a followup surveillance program of preventive care. Call (212) 731-5452 to see if you qualify.
