Better Nutrition, Charlotte Huff
Published September 30, 2006
Eating fish has never been so popular, with customers crowding local seafood
counters and exotic fish filling restaurant menus. In 2004, the average
American consumed 16.6 pounds annually--up 8 percent since 1999, says the
National Marine Fisheries Service.
Officials at the American Heart Association recommend at least twoservings a
week, emphasizing fatty fish such as lake trout and salmon, rich in the
omega-3 fatty acids associated with heart health. But there's a significant
catch--at least for some consumers.
Nearly all fish are contaminated to some degree with mercury and other toxic
chemicals, such as polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs). In 2004, officials at
the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Food and Drag
Administration advised young children and pregnant or nursing women to avoid
swordfish and other large predatory fish more likely to carry significant
mercury, and to limit total fish consumptionto two meals weekly.
Fish or Cut Bait?
Fish industry advocates and some researchers worry that too much emphasis on
contaminants will unnecessarily spook numerous other Americans from eating
fish. "If people are scared away because of the mercury, their health will
be a lot worse off than that of someone who eats fish and has low-level
exposure to mercury and other contaminants," says Charles Santerre, PhD, a
longtime fish researcher and a food toxicology professor at Purdue
University.
Neither is the contaminant research universally conclusive. A 15-year,
ongoing University of Rochester study that has tracked nearly 800 children
in the Seychelles since birth has found no significant developmental delays
despite the mothers' hefty fish consumption--an average of 11 to 12 fish
meals weekly. (The average American's weekly intake is 5 ounces.) One
explanation for these findings may be that beneficial fish nutrients offset
mercury's toxic effects, says Phil Davidson, PhD, one of the study's
researchers and an expert in developmental disabilities.
Focus on Bottom Feeders
The bottom line, says American Dietetic Association spokeswoman Cynthia
Sass, is to focus on fish low on the food chain and exercise a healthy dose
of moderation. "If they eat fish, I encourage people to do so two to three
times a week, about 3 to 4 ounces at a time," she says. "And to vary the
kinds of fish they eat."
fish-buying FAQs
Q: Which fish should I avoid?
A: Federal officials advise that young children and childbearing women avoid
shark, swordfish, king mackerel and tile fish entirely. The Environmental
Working Group, an advocacy organization, adds albacore tuna to that list.
The safest course for most Americans is to steerclear of all five to limit
mercury exposure, says Marion Nestle, PhD, a New York University nutrition
professor and author of What to Eat. Craving a tuna sandwich? Nestle
recommends chunk tuna, which is less contaminated. Also, to avoid confusion,
carry a fish card in your wallet. You can download a free one at
thefishlist.org.
Q: Farmed or wild?
A: Farm fish are frequently fed smaller fish ground and made into pellets,
boosting their risk of accumulated contaminants. A study in the journal
Science reported significantly higher levels of PCBs, dioxins and other
contaminants in farm-raised fish compared with wild-caught salmon, The
results garnered big headlines. But the human healthrisks were overblown,
says Santerre, pointing out that the contaminants fall well below federal
safety limits.
Q: Can I eat fish I catch myself?
A: Catch and release might be the best strategy. In 2004, 3,221 health
advisories were issued, covering 35 percent of the nation's lakes and 24
percent of its rivers, according to EPA officials. Don't assume that
sparkling clear waters are safe, says Santerre. "You can't see the
contaminants." If you are still uncertain about the water's safety, eat no
more than 6 ounces and avoid any additional fish the rest of the week.
Q: How should I prepare fish?
A: Make sure your fish is filleted, removing the internal organs and the
skin. Grill, bake or broil on a rack, allowing the contaminants stored in
the fatty parts to run off. Avoid frying, which can seal in the fat.
