eDiets, Susan Burke MS, RD, LD/N, CDE
Published May 3, 2005
It pays to be a smart shopper, especially when buying salmon. The New York Times recently published a story showing that city fish mongers are misrepresenting farmed salmon as wild.
The reporter concluded that taste is the best test, other than chemically testing the fish. But should consumers have to question the authenticity of the fish, especially when they're paying more per pound than for filet mignon?
The question: is wild worth the price?
Well-Known Health Benefits
I've been buying my salmon for the past couple of years at the local warehouse store, enjoying fresh fillets for less than $5 per pound. Portioned and cooked on my counter-top grill, one fillet is usually enough for two people, for two or three meals.
I've taken the health benefits of salmon to heart. Low in saturated fat and a good source of omega-3 fatty acids and other heart-healthy nutrients, salmon is a main plate favorite in my house.
In the U.S., Americans are eating more fish than ever before. Salmon is especially popular, not only because it's good for you and inexpensive, but also it tastes good. We're eating more than 25 percent more salmon today than in 1987.
Eighty-six percent of fresh salmon sold in the U.S. is farm-raised, mostly imported from Chile and Canada. The Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute has done a nice job of gathering research articles that support the recommendation for eating more cold water fish.
Increased consumption of fish high in omega-3 fatty acids (like salmon) reduces the risk for heart disease, diabetes, and high blood pressure, as well as lowering risk for many cancers including breast, prostate, lung and colon.
Health Benefits, Health Risks
The Times story piqued my interest. Why would someone pay almost five times as much for wild salmon? Unfortunately, all salmon is not equal. Fish farming has become a huge industry and that's the problem.
Farming fish is akin to farming cattle and poultry. Free range chickens command a higher price, but they're not cooped up in pens and fed antibiotics. Similarly, consumers pay a premium for organic beef, free of antibiotics and contaminated feed.
A study by the Environmental Working Group reports that farmed salmon are likely the most PCB-contaminated protein source in the U.S. food supply. Scientists allow consumers to weigh the risks of taking in certain levels of these substances against the known health benefits inherent in salmon and other fish.
The American Cancer Society cites research from Indiana University, reported in the journal Science , showing that farmed salmon have higher levels of potentially cancer-causing chemicals than wild. Farmed salmon contain much higher amounts of PCBs and dioxin than wild. These chemicals have been linked to cancer in some studies.
Since wild salmon eat smaller fish, which may contain high levels of these toxins, the researchers concluded that all salmon have the potential to contain unwanted contaminants. But wild salmon are far less likely to contain levels that are considered dangerous.
Researchers blame the food fed to farmed fish for the higher contaminant levels. It consists of a concentrated mix of fish meal and fish oil. The industry group, Salmon of the Americas, said it has lately improved fish feed by substituting vegetable matter for a portion of the fish oil and fish meal.
However, wild salmon contain far less contaminants and come by their attractive pink color naturally. Farmed salmon are fed a synthetic substance to render their flesh a more attractive pink, for the purpose of luring consumers. The coloring pigment fed to farmed fish concerns consumer groups, who note that other countries are reducing the amounts and types of additives allowed.
The USDA cites nutritional advantages of wild salmon over farmed salmon. Wild is lower in saturated fat and has a healthier ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids (3:1 instead of 10:1 for farmed).
The American Cancer Society still recommends that people eat salmon, but not daily. It suggests that people eat a variety of foods, with an emphasis on plant sources. The guidelines also advise substituting fish, poultry, lean meat and beans for fatty red meat.
The Food and Drug Administration recommends trimming visible fat on meat, removing the skin from fish and poultry, and cooking in ways that reduce fat (such as broiling or grilling) to reduce the risk of eating contaminants.
Ninety percent of all salmon sold in grocery stores is farmed. Although the fish may be labeled "wild," there is little assurance that it's not farmed.
Fish Oil Supplements
The Environmental Defense, a non-profit organization devoted to keeping the planet healthy, reminds us that there are other ways to include the benefits of omega-3 fatty acids in our diet.
1. Fish oil supplements. Although the same contaminants that accumulate in fatty fish could be found in supplements (mercury, PCBs, dioxin and pesticides, for example), you can purchase purified, pharmaceutical grade supplements. Because dietary supplements are not reviewed, standardized or approved by the FDA, go to the Environmental Defense website to read the results of their survey on the best and worst choices for fish oil supplements.
2. Alternative sources of the omega-3 fatty acid include flaxseed, walnuts, wheat germ and plant-based omega-3 tablets. Research shows that the plant-based forms of these fatty acids are less beneficial, however, than fish.
