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Environment: Fish 'N' Pcbs

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Published January 10, 2004

What is it with fish these days? First mercury and now this: A new reportin science says farm-raised Atlantic salmon contains dramatically higher concentrations of PCBs and other suspected cancer-causing agents than wild salmon. A likely reason, says the study: Farm varieties are fed meal made from fish plucked from contaminated waters. Worried? You should be, say researchers, who warn that the health risks of farm-raised salmon may even outweigh the benefits of eating it. So should you give it up? "Absolutely not," says Alex Trent of industry group Salmon of the Americas. "It would do more harm than good," because salmon is full of heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids. He says the contaminants are within Food and Drug Administration safety limits, and that the industry has been reducing PCB levels by shifting from fish to vegetable-based feed. Others aren't so sure; while levels are within FDA regs, they exceed more stringent Environmental Protection Agency guidelines. "Limit consumption to [an 8-ounce serving] once a month," says Jane Houlihan of the Environmental Working Group. And be sure to trim PCB-laden fat--and grill, bake, or broil the fish to cook off the fat. Or, if you're feeling flush, spring for more expensive wild salmon. Researchers say their findings make the case for labeling fish as farm-raised or wild.

Just FYI: If it's not labeled, says Houlihan, assume it's farm-raised--including restaurant fare. So much for that tres pricey salmon du jour.