The Republican (Springfield, Massachusetts), Debi Llorens
Published April 24, 2007
There are few culinary phenomena that surpass the amazing formation of the popover.
I remember the first time I looked through the oven window only to wonder if I had committed an egregious error. Although I was sure that I had followed the recipe instructions to the letter, these "things" seemed to be taking over my oven like something from a science fiction movie!
It truly was amazing to watch how they rose above the rim of the mold, ballooning to, what seemed like, the point of exploding. Surprisingly, they did not explode, nor did they deflate when I removed them from the oven.
Instead, what emerged was a delightfully light, crisp shell which, when broken open, revealed a hollow interior with filaments of tender, egg-scented baked dough. After slathering a piece with butter, I tasted it. It was delicious, and so easy to make!
I began to think about all of the different applications for this confounding, yet wonderful, creation. I imagined it halved, the interior filled with any number of different tender, braised meat concoctions.
Then I thought about a creamy seafood combination, perhaps, shrimp, crab, lobster and scallops, filling the hollow of this scrumptious, crisp baked vessel to overflowing. Instantly, I was hooked, and I couldn't wait to discover all of the possibilities.
After doing a bit of research, I learned that the same formula used to produce what we have come to know as popovers, is also what the British have come to enjoy as Yorkshire pudding. Of course, in spite of its name, Yorkshire pudding is not a dessert, but an accompaniment to juicy, tender roast beef.
Instead of baking the batter in individual molds, it is poured into a hot roasting pan containing the rendered fat and juices of roast beef, and allowed to bake to a deep golden brown, absorbing the meat drippings and forming a delicious, amorphous mass. It is then cut into individual serving sizes and served with the beef.
I also realized that the puffed, apple-filled pancake served in many restaurants as a breakfast delicacy, is nothing more than caramelized apples that are then baked with popover-like batter creating a light, puffy treat which, when served with butter, maple syrup, and a rasher of bacon, turns into a breakfast dream-come-true!
The only "special" tool I needed was a heavy well-seasoned cast iron frying pan. I had been fortunate to inherit a beauty from my grandmother, but I suppose if you have not been lucky enough to inherit one of these treasures from a relative or friend, you may be tempted to use a non-stick frying pan with an oven-safe handle.
However, according to the Environmental Working Group (online at
www.ewg.org) it is not a good idea to heat an empty, non-stick surface to high temperatures as it may damage your pan and emit dangerous toxic fumes. To be on the safe side, I would choose a stainless steel frying pan with a metal handle.
Another useful appliance would be a blender or food processor, but a wire whisk and a bit of muscle will do the job nicely.
I hope you'll try the following basic popover recipe.
Basic popovers
1 cup all purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 large eggs
1 cup whole milk
1/4 cup butter
Preheat oven to 425 to 450 degrees.
In a blender, food processor or large bowl, combine the flour and salt. In a separate bowl, combine the eggs and milk. Carefully whisk or process the mixture until well-blended, about 30 seconds.
Allow the batter to rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Stir thoroughly before continuing.
Generously grease a large popover (6 popovers) mold with butter. Place mold into the oven to preheat for about 10 minutes and melt the butter. Remove from the oven and fill the cups 2/3 full with batter.
Return to the oven and bake for 15 minutes. Lower the temperature to 350 degrees. Without opening the oven, continue to bake for 15 more minutes or until golden brown.
Remove from the oven and poke each with a small hole to release the steam. Serve hot with lots of butter.
Note: If you do not have a popover mold, you can use oven proof custard cups.
The following recipe was in the October 1990 issue of Bon Appetit magazine.
German apple pancake
Makes 2 servings
3 large eggs
2/3 cup half-and-half
1/2 cup all purpose flour
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted
4 tablespoons granulated sugar
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pinch of salt
1 large Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
1 teaspoon powdered sugar
In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, half-and-half, flour, 2 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon sugar, 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon and salt. (If available, use a blender or food processor to do the job.)
The batter can be prepared 1 day ahead. Stir thoroughly before continuing. Melt the remaining butter in the bottom and sides of a cast iron or other oven-proof skillet.
Add the sliced apples. Sprinkle remaining sugar and cinnamon over the apples and cook for about 5 minutes over medium-high heat until just tender, stirring occasionally.
Pour the batter over the apples and place the skillet in the preheated oven.
Bake until puffed and golden brown, about 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and cut around the edges to loosen. Invert the pancake onto a platter and sift powdered sugar over the top.
Serve immediately with warm maple syrup.
Caution: The handles of your skillet will remain hot for some time after being removed from the oven. Place a pot holder on the handle to avoid burns.
Once you've tried these recipes, use your culinary imagination to create wonderful and delicious meals for friends and family.
Enjoy!
Chef Debi Llorens is a graduate of the Connecticut Culinary Institute. She welcomes questions or suggestions for columns at dkllorens@
