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Home » FAQs: Your Sunscreen Questions. Our Answers.

FAQs: Your Sunscreen Questions. Our Answers.

Sunscreens: How it Works, What it Means

Which sunscreens are best and why?

An ideal sunscreen would block both UVA and UVB rays with active ingredients that do not break down in the sun (so that the product remains effective) and would contain active and inactive ingredients that are proven to be safe for both adults and children. Unfortunately, there is no sunscreen on the U.S. market that meets all these criteria, and no simple way for consumers to know how well a given product stacks up on any of these measures. That’s why EWG created this guide to safer and more effective sunscreens. To see how we conducted our analysis and ranked products, read our methodology.

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Is a good sunscreen all I need to stay safe?

No. Sunscreen can only provide partial protection against harmful effects of the sun. Limiting sun exposure and wearing protective clothing are even more important for protecting your skin from cancer and premature aging. Be extra careful about sun exposure between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., when the sun’s burning rays are most intense, and remember that UVA radiation is more constant and doesn’t decline as much when the sun is lower in the sky or it’s overcast. It also penetrates glass. Apply sunscreen generously 30 minutes before going outside and reapply it often — at least every two hours. Even the best sunscreen won’t work well if you don’t use it correctly (ACS 2007; BCCDC 2003).

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Doesn’t the government ensure that sunscreen protects us?

No. After 34 years, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration last year issued sunscreen rules that have the force of law. The FDA will allow American sunscreen makers to claim their products are “broad spectrum,” even though they offer much poorer UVA protection than is provided by sunscreens sold in other countries. Based on the products in our 2012 database, EWG calculates that half of the products that pass muster with the FDA would not be sold in Europe due to inadequate UVA protection. There, manufacturers voluntarily comply with a European Union recommendation that all sunscreens provide meaningful UVA protection in relation to SPF.   And still legal under the new FDA rules are products with sky-high SPFs that prevent sunburn but leave users at risk of UVA-related skin damage. The FDA  still permits powder and spray products that can be harmful when inhaled.  The agency has not approved sunscreen ingredients that are widely available in other countries. The U.S. is decades behind in sunscreen safety.

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Which sunscreens are best for children?

Since kids are more vulnerable to damage caused by the sun and to harmful effects of chemical exposure, you want to make sure you choose a sunscreen that is rated highly for both effectiveness (against both UVA and UVB radiation) and safety. Use EWG’s guide to help you find one. If your child is going to be swimming or playing in the water, look for a sunscreen that says it is water resistant. Avoid sprays, powders and products with bug repellant.

Make sure to apply sunscreen generously before children go out and reapply it often. Don’t believe claims that a product will remain effective for a certain period of time, as these are not always reliable. Infants under six months need special protection — at this age, a fair-skinned baby does not have melanin proteins for sun protection and needs to be kept out of the sun. The American Academy of Pediatrics recommends that you avoid using sunscreen on children younger than 6 months unless protective shade and clothing are not available. In this case you can apply a minimal amount to exposed skin (AAP 2008). Remember that sunscreen is just one part of a sun-healthy lifestyle. Limiting sun exposure and wearing protective clothing are even more important than wearing sunscreen. Read more about our sun safety tips for the entire family.

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How much sunscreen is enough, and how often?

Follow the advice of the American Cancer Society and put on sunscreen early, regularly and generously. Apply it 30 minutes before going outside and at least every two hours thereafter. Make sure to reapply after being in the water, sweating a lot or towel drying, since all of these activities can take sunscreen off your skin. (One study indicates it’s best to reapply your sunscreen after 15 to 30 minutes in the sun, so consider doing this as well.) Don’t skimp when putting sunscreen on skin not shaded by clothing or a hat. Studies have shown that consumers typically apply only 1/4 to 2/3 of the amount required to achieve the product’s SPF rating. The FDA recommends applying one ounce (about a palm full) evenly to all exposed skin (ACS 2007; BCCDC 2003; Diffey 2001).

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Will sunscreen protect me from cancer and wrinkling?

Both main types of ultraviolet radiation – UVA and UVB – are known to contribute to skin cancer, wrinkling and skin aging. To get the most protection, use a product that filters out a significant proportion of both types. All sunscreens protect against UVB rays, but only some protect against UVA. The are usually labeled as UVA/UVB or “broad spectrum” sunscreens. You can tell how effective a particular sunscreen is at protecting skin from UVB by looking at the SPF number — the higher the number, the better the protection. But SPF values tell you nothing about UVA protection. In fact, the FDA’s rules for broad spectrum sunscreen are too weak. They allow almost 90 percent of all sunscreens on the market to use the term even when they provide paltry UVA protection. There are critical differences among sunscreens, but you can’t find enough about the product by reading the label.  This is one of the primary reasons EWG created its sunscreen guide — to give consumers much-needed information about how effectively their sunscreen blocks both types of harmful radiation.

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What does “SPF” mean?

SPF is a measurement of sunburn protection, primarily from UVB rays. If your skin would normally burn after 10 minutes in the sun, for example, wearing an SPF 15 sunscreen would theoretically allow you to stay in the sun for 150 minutes (10 x 15) without burning. This is a rough estimate, however, and your own skin, the type of activity you do in the sun (e.g. involving water or sweat), and the intensity of sunlight may affect how much safety it gives you. Be aware that SPF ratings can be confusing or misleading.

Among other things, SPF ratings can be misleading because the numbers do not reflect the product’s degree of protection from UVA rays, which cause photo-aging, immune suppression and cancer. The FDA has warned that high-SPF products can create a false sense of security, contain greater concentrations of allergenic or irritating ingredients and offer little additional sun protection (Branna 2011).

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What SPF should I use?

Pick the SPF appropriate for your skin type and solar exposure. But remember that UVA protection in U.S. sunscreens maxes out at about 15, so higher SPF products will not fully protect your skin from sun damage. The American Cancer Society recommends that people use a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15, while the American Academy of Dermatology opts for 30. Avoid sunscreens with SPF numbers higher than 50. More important than seeking out ultra-high SPF products is that you apply your sunscreen generously — most people put on only a 1/4 to 2/3 as much sunscreen as it takes to achieve the product’s SPF rating (ACS 2007, BCCDC 2003, FDA 2007).

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What is the difference between sunscreen, sunblock and suntan lotion?

Products marketed as “sunscreen” and “sunblock” contain ingredients that provide at least some protection from sunburn and other damaging effects of the sun’s rays. Products marketed as “suntan” or “tanning” lotion, on the other hand, do not contain such ingredients and do not provide any protection. They are intended to be used strictly for tanning. New FDA rules that take effect in December 2012 will ban the term “sunblock” from sunscreen labels because it falsely implies that the product shields you from all solar radiation. No product can block all sunlight.

Also in December sunscreens that fail the FDA’s broad spectrum test must warn, “This product has been shown only to prevent sunburn, not skin cancer or early skin aging.”

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Are nanoparticles used in my sunscreen? Should I be concerned?

If your sunscreen lists titanium dioxide or zinc oxide as an active ingredient and it’s not the color of white paint on your skin, then the most likely answer is yes, there are particles smaller than 100 nanometers (nm) in it. Two competing factors lead manufacturers to use nanoparticles:  (1) consumers’ desire for clear sunscreens requires particle sizes to be less than 200-300nm in size, and (2) higher SPF products necessitate the use of smaller particles that have greater efficacy for any given amount of the active ingredient. Titanium dioxide particles are rod-shaped, and if they’re larger than 15-35nm, they become visibly white. An excellent illustration of the particle size effect on skin coloration is available on the Kobo Products website. For our efficacy calculations we assumed a particle of size of 15-35nm.

Zinc oxide particles are more spherical and sunscreens can use larger sizes without undesirable tinting. For EWG’s efficacy calculations we assumed particle sizes of 40-60nm and 140nm as the best estimates of what is currently being used in sunscreen. All evidence we evaluated indicates that a significant portion of the primary particles are smaller than 100nm in all mineral sunscreen ingredients that are clear when applied on the skin.

Should I be concerned?

EWG is among the many advocacy groups that have raised concerns about whether the rapidly expanding use of nanotechnology poses risks to human health or the environment. We have determined that most zinc and titanium sunscreens contain nanosized particles, even when they are not listed on the label.

Although we expected to reach a different conclusion at the outset of our sunscreen investigation, when we balanced all factors important in sunscreen safety, our analysis shows that many zinc and titanium-based sunscreens are among the safest and most effective sunscreens on the market. Our product ratings reflect our concern about the very real dangers of cancer and other health hazards from sun exposure, balanced against concerns about the potential health hazards of sunscreen ingredients. Read our assessment of zinc and titanium sunscreens here.

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are stable compounds that provide broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection. The available studies consistently show very little or zero penetration of intact skin by these compounds, indicating that real-world exposure to potential nanosized particles in these products is likely very low (Börm 2006). The sun protection benefits, in contrast, are very high.

EWG’s rating of zinc and titanium-based products as among the safest and most effective sunscreens available in the U.S. today should not be interpreted as an endorsement of nanomaterials in general. We remain deeply concerned about the overall safety and oversight of nanotechnology as well as impacts on workers and the environment.

Benefits:

  • UV exposure is damaging to health, and zinc and titanium offer broad spectrum UV protection.
  • Zinc and titanium are two of only four UVA blockers used in the US. The only other U.S.-approved sunscreen ingredients that provide UVA-I protection are avobenzone and Mexoryl SX. Alternatives including Tinosorb S and Tinosorb M are available in Europe but not approved by FDA for use in the U.S.
  • In 15 peer-reviewed studies, nanosize zinc and titanium were shown not to penetrate unbroken skin at concentrations exceeding 1.5 percent. A recent review for the EU decision-making body found that: “There is currently little evidence from skin penetration studies that dermal applications of metal oxide nanoparticles used in sunscreens lead to systemic exposure” (Börm 2006).
  • Zinc oxide poses a low level of concern based on currently available science. It is well studied and is a necessary nutrient to humans.

Concerns about zinc and titanium in sunscreens:

  • No studies have tested nanosize zinc and titanium penetration through fragile or damaged skin. Conventional zinc is widely used on damaged skin, including in diaper ointment and burn treatment. However, other nanoscale particles have been shown to penetrate the skin, especially when it is repeatedly flexed.
  • The U.S. regulatory framework has lagged far behind industry in addressing the impacts of nanotechnology. Due to inadequate labeling requirements, consumers have no way to avoid products containing nanoparticles.
  • Nanoparticle production raises serious concerns about workers’ exposures, especially through inhalation, which available science indicates is likely the greatest human hazard. Occupational exposure during production is virtually unregulated in the U.S.
  • Nanoparticles, including of zinc and titanium, are potentially toxic to the environment. Like all sunscreen ingredients, their use in sunscreens results in releases of the chemicals through production, users’ contact with water and as waste.
  • Read our detailed 2009 summary of nanotechnology risks and benefits.

What to do:

  • The FDA needs to evaluate the behavior of nanoparticles in products.
  • Manufacturers using materials with all or a fraction of the ingredient in the nanoscale range must clearly label their products with this information to give consumers the option of avoiding them.
  • The FDA must evaluate and approve new sunscreen chemicals that can protect against UVA and might offer fewer risks to workers and the environment.
  • The safety of nanoscale zinc and titanium in sunscreen must be fully assessed.

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How do sunscreens work?

The active ingredients in sunscreens absorb, reflect or scatter ultraviolet (UV) radiation, changing how the body responds to this radiation. Sunscreens typically contain a combination of different chemicals that are known to be effective for certain wavelengths of UV light. Some chemicals work better than others, however, as do some combinations of chemicals. For years, manufacturers created sunscreens that were only effective at screening out UVB radiation, since this is the type of radiation that was known to cause sunburn and increase the risk of skin cancer. More recently, manufacturers have worked to create sunscreens that will protect the skin from both UVB and UVA radiation, since scientists realized that UVA radiation is also harmful. All sunscreens provide UVB protection, but only some protect against UVA rays (FDA 1999).

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Has sunscreen usage decreased skin cancer rates over time?

The National Cancer Institute says that there is currently inadequate scientific evidence to answer this question. Still, consumers should know that two controlled studies comparing sunscreen users with non-users found that sunscreens reduced the risk of one common form of skin cancer (squamous-cell carcinoma) but not another common (basal-cell carcinoma). This work provides further support for the generally accepted recommendation to use sunscreen but not rely on it exclusively to prevent sun-related damage to the skin (NCI 2007; van der Pols 2006; Green 1999).

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Why shouldn’t I use sunscreen sprays and powders?

EWG does not recommend powder and spray sunscreens because of concerns about inhalation. The FDA is considering rejecting both on the grounds that they cannot be applied properly to ensure adequate skin protection (FDA 2011a).  EWG is especially concerned about inhalation of nano- or microsize zinc and titanium in powdered sunscreens. Inhalation is a much more direct route of exposure to these compounds than skin penetration, which appears to be low in healthy skin. If you want the benefits of a mineral sunscreen, choose a zinc- or titanium-containing lotion instead of a powder. When using a pump or spray sunscreen, lower your inhalation risk by applying the product on your hands and then wiping it on your face.

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What about sunscreens combined with bug spray?

EWG recommends that you skip regular use of products that combine bug spray with sunscreen. For starters, bugs may not be a problem during the hours that UV exposure peaks. Also, sunscreen may need to be reapplied more frequently than bug spray, or vice versa. Avoid using pesticides on your face, too. Most worrisome is the fact that sunscreens often contain penetration enhancers. Studies indicating that concurrent use of sunscreens and pesticides leads to increased skin adsorption of the pesticide (Brand 2003; Kasichayanula 2005; Pont 2003; Pont 2004; Wang 2006; Wang 2007).

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My sunscreen has the Skin Cancer Foundation (SCF) Seal of Recommendation. What does this mean?

More than 600 products bear the Skin Cancer Foundation’s Seal of Recommendation, but this certification has been limited to manufacturers who join SCF’s Corporate Council at a cost of $10,000 a year. The SCF applies criteria that are less rigorous than those of the American Academy of Dermatology or EWG. They include an SPF of 15 or higherer, in-person SPF testing, data showing the product doesn’t cause phototoxic reactions or irritation and proof to substantiate any claims of water or sweat resistance.

In May 2012, the Skin Cancer Foundation is bringing its requirements in line with the FDA’s weak standards for UVA for “broad spectrum” protection, a move that will rubber stamp as safe almost 90  percent of current products. Europe, Japan and Australia have  set higher standards for UVA protection, a move supported by sunscreen experts. (Diffey 2012).

The Skin Cancer Foundation claims to set “stringent criteria” for sun protection. EWG encourage the foundation to raise the bar and reward only superior sunscreens with its Seal of Recommendation.

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I see the American Cancer Society logo on my Neutrogena sunscreen. Is this a better product?

The American Cancer Society and Neutrogena have partnered to raise public awareness of skin cancer. Neutrogena pays a royalty to use the ACS logo, but ACS claims that this is not an endorsement or validation of the efficacy of its products.

According to the ACS website: “As part of our relationship with Neutrogena, the American Cancer Society logo appears on some of their sunscreen products, along with a disclosure about the nature of our relationship. Specifically, the notice states that we do not endorse a specific product and that a royalty fee has been paid for the use of our brand logo” (ACS 2007).

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I am using a decent sunscreen with SPF 50, so why do I still get burned?

With proper usage of an SPF 50 sunscreen you should be able to get 50 times more solar exposure before burning than if you were not wearing sunscreen. Proper usage means that: you apply sunscreen 20-30 minutes before you’re exposed to the sun; you applying about one ounce over your entire body (that’s more than you think!); and you reapply it frequently. Make sure to reapply every two hours and after swimming, sweating or toweling off. Many studies show that consumers apply a quarter to half the recommended amount of lotion. That means that an SPF 50 product will act more like SPF 7.

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Will I be able to tan if I apply sunscreen?

Tanning is caused by UVA radiation that triggers the production of melanin in our skin. Sunburns are predominantly caused by shorter wavelength UVB exposure. In general, if you block UVB radiation but allow UVA radiation, you will get a tan and lower the risk of sunburns. This is the approach that tanning salons have taken. The problem is that overexposure to UVA can damage to skin. UVA light is associated with immune suppression, skin aging and even cancer. But unlike with a sunburn, you don’t get an immediate signal that you’ve had too much sun, so these subtle damages can accumulate over years.

For these reasons, the FDA is finally joining other developed countries in proposing regulations that would require products to disclose their effectiveness in screening both UVA and UVB light. With broad spectrum UV coverage, you have more protection from sunburns as well as other long-term skin damage. Depending on how much time you spend in the sun and the protection afforded by your sunscreen, you can still tan, but at a slower and more controlled rate.

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How do you remove sunscreen?

Chemical-based sunscreens will be broken down by the sun and loose their effectiveness over time. Normal swimming, toweling and sweating will also remove sunscreen. At the end of the day, warm water, soap and a bit of elbow grease are the best ways to remove sunscreen from your skin.

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What should I do to protect my pet from the sun?

Animals can get sunburned and even get skin cancer. The most sensitive areas are those not covered by hair. Avoiding peak sun intensity between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. is the best strategy. The American Animal Hospital Association cautions that only fragrance-free, pet-specific products should be used on animals. Grooming behaviors put cats at greater risk for ingesting harmful ingredients in sunscreens. (Rainey 2009).

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Should I be concerned about vitamin A in my sunscreen?

EWG recommends that consumers avoid sunscreen with vitamin A. (Look for “retinyl palmitate” on the label).

Data from an FDA cancer study show that retinyl palmitate, a form of vitamin A commonly used as a sunscreen ingredient, may speed the growth of skin tumors. These effects happen only when retinyl palmitate or other forms of vitamin A are used on skin in the presence of  sunlight. The study of retinyl palmitate’s toxicity was conducted by scientists at the FDA and the National Toxicology Panel.  They reinforced earlier data identifying health risks of vitamin A in sun-exposed skin care products.

Sunscreen manufacturers add retinyl palmitate to a quarter of all sunscreens. Since 2000, FDA has expressed concerned about vitamin A safety in skin care products because of its ability to spur excess skin growth, called hyperplasia, and because in sunlight it forms free radicals and damages DNA (NTP 2000).

 

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